Member Article

Tatty Devine talks jewellery and micro-manufacturing with Bdaily

It’s manufacturing focus week on Bdaily, and we’re looking at the debate around the UK sector.

The traditional picture of industry is far removed from the vibrant and creative factories of British jewellery designers and ’micro-manufacturers,’ Tatty Devine. Rosie Wolfenden and Harriet Vine met at art school in the 1990s, and after making jewelery for themselves from found objects, they went on to sell pieces at Portobello Market in London. From there they went on to find success and open a shop on the legendary Brick Lane in East London.

Bdaily spoke to one half of the partnership, Rosie Wolfenden, to talk about what kind of manufacturer Tatty Devine is, and how they’ve brought this process into the retail space.

“We’ve had to create our own manufacturing processes and our own factory because the product we’ve developed needs our own techniques and processes. We’ve created what we call ‘micro manufacturing’ because we’re not doing it on a large scale for others; it’s purely for ourselves. So it’s very, very specific and specialist to create Tatty Devine jewellery.”

Rosie and Harriet’s jewellery is highly recognisable and unique to them. Their designs are widely described as being kitsch, playful,and creative, all of which calls for an equally unique manufacturing space.

“The minute you enter our spaces, you can tell it’s a Tatty Devine space. Our team are so enthusiastic, creative and fun, and they all live locally. Although it’s not in a purpose built, interesting space, it’s still, on the inside, got everything you need for it to be on-brand and to be a creative space.

“We set up a manufacturing space in Kent about four years ago, simply because we didn’t have enough space in London. That’s grown and grown, and we’re working towards having our own multi-functional space because we also do our fulfillment from there.”

Rosie spoke about how important it was for the Tatty Devine brand to keep its British identity, but also how they hope to expand the business beyond UK borders.

“At the moment we export about 30%, which is mostly to America, but also France, Australia and Japan. We do have quite ambitious growth plans, but we want to keep the manufacturing in Britain. There is an argument that if we grow, for example to the U.S., that over time we will manufacture over there.

“As you’re trying to export more, it’s not just about exporting a product, we’re actually exporting the ‘Made in England’ tag. At the moment we’re investigating how much value that actually adds. If you’re exporting to America it might not add much value if it’s costing a lot to ship, so it might be that we manufacture in territories we grow in.”

“I think creativity is Britain’s greatest asset. As far as what we have in exports and manufacturing, I think it all stems from creativity. It makes sense if we can retain some of that manufacturing, if it’s so closely linked to what the country has as a skill set.”

Alongside expansion out of Britain, Rosie spoke about how they’ve even taken manufacturing into the retail space through one of their most popular designs; the name necklace. A concession in London’s department store, Selfridges, now allows customers to choose and design a necklace with their name on it, which is then made right in front of them.

“This is micro-manufacturing on a whole different level,” Rosie explained. “Our name necklace concession in Selfridges has been so incredibly successful that we really want to have it elsewhere, and at least with other Selfridges stores. Maybe in Manchester and Birmingham.

“It’s fairly exciting to know you can go into a department store and essentially make stock to order, on the spot. And it only takes up about 2x1 metres, which is such a tiny space! And we’re making anything from about 50 to 70 a day, which is really quite a lot.

“I think it’s interesting if you think about how it’s not far removed from going into a key cutters and having a dog tag engraved, but we’ve obviously elevated it as a brand and a fashion item. It’s a really desirable item and its so popular. It’s personalised, it’s fun and cool. It ticks so many boxes that it’s really exciting. It just takes everything to a new level.”

So what’s next for the Tatty Devine pairing? Rosie let on about their first steps into America.

“Now we’re working on establishing ourselves more in America and we’re hoping to open a small store there in Summer/Autumn. What I’d really like to see happen is the shop opening, the brand developing and then we can start fulfilling from America and have a fully functioning U.S. website.

“That might indeed lead to us manufacturing in America, but we’ll see what happens!”

This was posted in Bdaily's Members' News section by Miranda Dobson .