New Greek restaurant set to open at ‘London’s premier food market’ in spring
In spring 2024, David Carter, founder of SMOKESTAK and co-founder of manteca, is opening the doors to OMA, a new restaurant inspired by the sun-soaked shores and raw landscapes of the Greek isles, and flavours of the surrounding coastal regions.
Located on the first floor of a thoughtfully designed space in London’s Borough Market, OMA draws its name from the Greek word for ‘raw’, featuring both a crudo bar and an open plan, live fire kitchen.
Up a flight of off-white stone stairs, just off Bedale Street, guests enter a daylight-flooded dining room, lined with custom crafted windows that stretch to the height of the building and look out onto the terrace on the left, and into the kitchen on the right.
Facing the entrance is a 2.5m-long raw bar, featuring a display of dayboat fish, shellfish and molluscs, where guests can perch to watch the kitchen team preparing plates of raw and cured crudo, ceviche and tartare.
Beyond the bar lies the heart of OMA: a central hearth upon which dry-aged meat, Cornish fish, and Flourish Farm vegetables are skewered, grilled, or cooked under open wood fire. Heartier dishes of youvetsi (orzo-based hot pots) are cooked in traditional pottery and clay pots sourced from Crete.
Interiors have been designed by the talented team at Box 9, long-term creative partners of David’s and the designers behind SMOKESTAK and manteca. They have taken their cues from the rugged landscapes of Greece, employing colour schemes of eucalyptus, stone and dark wood, and finishes utilising natural materials throughout.
A U-shaped bar curves seamlessly out onto the terrace, overlooking the bustling market below, with heaters offering warmth throughout the year for its 60-seat capacity.
Chefs Nick Molyviatis and Jorge Paredes, formerly head chef of Kiln and executive chef of Sabor respectively, are leading the kitchen alongside David, creating “novel interpretations of the humble techniques and generous flavours” of nostalgic Greek dishes, and bolstered by the “bold, confident” flavours of the Levant.
The menu begins with plates intended for sharing: hung sheep’s yoghurt with a salt cod XO sauce, and a hummus masabacha, with tahini and green zhoug. Wood-fired breads made with Wild-farmed grains in the basement bakery include açma, malawah, and laffa flatbreads.
On the fire, butterflied or slow-grilled red mullet is served with red miso butter, while skewered Cornish squid is brushed with a garlic and za’atar oil, finished with a dusting of sumac. Skewers are threaded with lamb belly and caramelised with date molasses, while clay hot pots are kept warm over the flames.
By Matthew Neville – Senior Correspondent, Bdaily
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